The minimalist chic Blackbird girds style with substance. Aluminum chairs and pale mohair banquettes seat guests at tables within easy eavesdropping distance of one another. But instead of the boring details of someone’s career, what you’re likely to hear are raves for chef Paul Kahan’s French-influenced cooking. Like the décor, his style is spare, hitting just the right contemporary notes without drowning in too many flavors. The market-driven menu changes frequently, with seasonal favorites such as homemade charcuterie, quail with foie gras, and braised veal cheeks. Noise levels are high but the elegantly attired fans who flock here consider it simply good buzz.

Blackbird Information:

• American menu. Lunch, dinner. Closed Sun; Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. Bar. Business casual attire. Valet parking. Outdoor seating.